Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
